CHAPTER VII
"Like music on the waters,From Crofthead to Levern Mill the distance is about two and a half miles which comprehends the grand body of Manufacturing Houses, and may be said to be literally one continued chain of buildings for similar purposes, and which are only seen to advantage by the beholder when on Fereneze braes. The native observer, however, has constantly in view some of these works as he travels, contemplating which, heartfelt emotions must arise in his bosom, and astonishment in the breast of the stranger.
Crofthead Factory, on the immediate banks of the Levern, contains 16,000 Spindles, and may be considered the most extensive work of the kind on that stream, and the most elevated in point of situation. Above Crofthead field, a Company a few years ago, were examining a spot at Midgehole, where it is said a Factory was to have been erected, and where, undoubtedly, the largest fall on the water could be obtained, as a dam might be thrown across the stream here were it necessary, which would undoubtedly destroy all the grandeur of the several beautiful falls, formed by nature, but would present the beholder with one grand cataract of perhaps from 50 to 60 feet in height . Some difference having taken place between the land¬owner and the parties concerned, the project of erecting a public work here was abandoned. Crofthead Mill has a fall of about thirty feet, and from ten to fifteen feet in reservation, if the water were drawn from the top of the dam. This Mill, soon after it was built, had the misfortune accidentally to be burned to the ground: about three years after this event it was rebuilt, according to its original plan. A very considerable addition was however afterwards made to it. Manufactures having thus taken their station at Crofthead, several good dwelling-houses are from time to time erected; among these, a new Inn called “Levern Lodge," was built in 1830, upon an arch directly across the Levern, as if there had not been a sufficiency of ground to be otherwise spared. It is well finished, and proves a very acceptable stage-house for travellers.
But to advert for a little to the Levern mill, situated near Dovecothall, which was the first built on the Levern, and the second in Scotland, (one at Rothsay, though some say at Pennycuik, having been erected a short time before it.) The first company concerned in this speculation, was Ramsay, Livingstone, and Love. Their Manager and the principal projector of the undertaking was Jonathan Heugh—all were from England. Heugh, though he had certainly the honour of first conducting the operations of this factory, does not seem to have been an adept in his trade, if we may be allowed to judge from the indifferent success that attended the company; but this, perhaps, may be justly attached to any other of them rather than to Heugh. Regarding Heugh, it is popularly related, that on purpose to inform himself of the various intricacies of the machinery, he found means one night to secrete himself in a factory in some part of England where they had made 'greater progress in Cotton-Spinning. Having gained the additional knowledge he desired by his nocturnal investigations, he returned to prepare the machinery necessary to be constructed in the Levern Mill. In Levern Mill, in Heugh's time, there was nothing spun but Water Twist, and that upon drum or water frames, which were moved with the waterpower. One drum drove two frames, the shaft being vertical; hence the process of spinning was not as now upon Jeanies or mules, which are machines betwixt the hand and water frames. This Mill seems to have been erected in 1780, and was afterwards possessed by the forefathers of the present Messrs. Dunlop, in whose hands it has been for about 60 years. They were likewise proprietors of a Corn mill which is still to be seen at Dove-cot-hall bridge, now occupied as a dwelling house. This mill was in operation for a very long series of years. "In 1791 there were only two small Cotton Mills in the parish, one of these at Dove-cot-hall was the second that was erected in Scotland. It was 76: feet long,- and 28 broad, and one storey high. The other at Gateside was, two stories in height, 100 feet long, and 31 broad; in both of, these there were only 301 people employed. These soon gave way to larger erections, and were converted into dwellings for the workers. There are now six Cotton Mills, all on a larger scale, of four or five stories in - height, displaying immense piles of building, whilst the least of them employs nearly as many people as both of the former. . The capital sunk in them is moderately estimated at £80,000, and the value of the yarn spun, has on an average of the two last years been £194,929 : 11 : 8." Mr. Wilson in his "Agricultural Report,” corroborates this statement thus far; wheel he says concerning the former of these Mills, that “a small building 78 feet long and 28 wide, was completed and filled with Spinning Machinery, in the year 1780." . From living authorities, however, it would seem that there is here a misstatement regarding the dimensions of the original Levern Mill, as it is confidently affirmed by them, that from the beginning it was three stories in height as at present, and not as the first Mill at Gateside, converted into dwelling houses, but one apartment is still kept for a. cotton store, or sorting room, another for a turning room and the third for the lumber room. When Gateside mill was first erected; it may be considered indicative of the future increase of mills, that day and night it was unceasingly at work, and. Its operations were long kept a profound secret. At Gateside, a Mill on a large scale was some time ago erected near the old one; it contains 10,560 spindles for Mule and 1344 for Water Twist and about 95 Carding Engines. The fall is 29 feet. In 1798 or 99 a large Mill was likewise erected at Levern Mill just noticed, but in cross position to the original building; it is 5 stories in height, has lately been lighted with Gas like the Gateside Mill; and, being fitted with Mules or Jennies, and other necessary apparatus, employs about 200 people; principally women. It has a fall of 18 feet, and a waterwheel of 20 horse power, and contains 10,440 spindles. It belongs to the same company as the Gateside mill, viz. Messrs. Jas. Dunlop & Sons. Arthurlie and Broadley mills were both built about the same period of time. The former was erected by Stewart Dunlop & Co. The latter by Mr. Airston of Netherkirk. The ground was then held by John Lochead, West Arthurlie, from the Earl of Glasgow. When fenced in, it was only a romantic, rugged, unproductive glen. In Arthurlie Mill there are 15,096 spindles and 136 carding machines. The waterfall is about 31 feet; but a number of feet under the mill being unappropriated, a fall of 40 feet could be obtained were it necessary, and were parties agreed about it. This mill was destroyed by fire about 18 years ago, having been built some 23 years previously. Broadley Mill is a large erection at the bottom of the steep road that leads to Neilston by the west. This mill a few years ago was greatly augmented, and is at present occupied by Messrs. Pollock, Gilmour, & Co. of Glasgow. It contains about 12000 spindles, and nearly 70 power-looms. This work was once the property of the late John Airston, Esq. Greenhill. The last erected Cotton Mill on the Levern, is Fereneze Mill, now the property of John Graham, Esq. It was first built by Bailie Cochran of Linwood, for a flax mill, about 33 years ago. At the present time the business is carried on in the name of the Fereneze Spinning Company. This mill was likewise burned to the ground about 30 years ago. Having been rebuilt soon after, it was filled with machinery for the spinning of cotton, in which it is still actively employed. An addition of about two-thirds more than the original building was completed in 1824, which altogether when filled with machinery will hold 12,840 spindles. In 1830 about 7000 were going, and it is expected that the previous number will be at work in a few months. The number of carding machines is 116; the water¬fall is about 23½ feet, and lately, on purpose to secure a more steady supply, a spacious dam was built over the Levern : a gasometer has been completed, and in August, 1830, an iron wheel 12 feet in breadth, and 24 in diameter, was erected here, - which, with the machinery connected with it, is said to have cost £1,500. Having thus given a brief sketch of the Cotton Factories on the Levern, let us see the increase in the number of spindles since Mr. Wilson wrote his history (1812.). The aggregate number was then reckoned at 57,000, and afforded employment to 1290 persons. In 1831, however, the amount of them stands thus:
|
In Levern Mill the Spindles are estimated. at |
10,440. |
|
Arthurlie Do. |
16,096. |
|
Fereneze Do. |
12,840. |
|
Gateside Do. |
11,904. |
|
Broadley Do. |
12,000. |
|
Crofthead Do. |
16,000. |
|
|
78,280. |
|
Deduct for Mr. Wilson's Estimate, |
67,000. |
|
Increase, (more than equal to the produce of the largest mill,) |
21,280. |
Thus, with the additional increase of spindles, it must be allowed there are many additional hands required. Indeed I have heard it remarked that there is as much yarn spun in the Levern mills, as would supply the inhabitants of the greater part of Scotland, for home consumpt. What then must be the immense quantity of this material produced in the numerous factories in Glasgow, Manchester, and other places in the United Kingdom, of far greater extent than any yet on the Levern! — Suffice to say, this trade has not failed to enrich many in this quarter, more surely than any other branch of business. Indeed the same remarks may also apply in part to the bleachers, some of whom having occasionally a double service of hands at work, one for the day and another for the night; and not¬withstanding the great competition, the bleaching-masters have in general very flourishing establishments. A short outline of the rise and progress of this business may not be uninteresting to the reader.
The art of bleaching linens appears to have been introduced into the parish of Neilston in 1765. Cross-Arthurlie field (now occupied by Mr. James Black,) for bleaching yarn, and Low Arthurlie (by Messrs. Jas. Cunningham & Sons,) for lawns, were commenced nearly about the same period. The former is however said to have had the precedence. Both have now become extensive, thriving, well-regulated works. The latter, it may be observed, was previously occupied by a Mr. Speirs, and afterwards by a Mr. Faulds, whose tack is still running on. These, together with other nine Bleaching establishments on Levem and its tributary streams, give employment to 1000 individuals, or upwards. The names of these several works, are as follow.—Viz. Waterside, Springbank, Gateside, Chappel, Kirkton, Netherkirk, High Arthurlie, Glanderston, and Darnly. Above Coudoun Ha', there was formerly a small work of this kind, but the houses, by order of the late Colonel Mure, were demolished, and now no vestige of them is to be seen. There was likewise a similar establishment for. Bleaching Yarn at Auchentiber, near Broadley Mill, which was carried on by a Mr. Speirs. The premises still remain, and are now occupied as dwelling-houses.—The tracts of tbe canals for distributing the water -are still visible before the doors. "At Green- end, also, near Cruikston Castle, there was at one time bleaching done, but the Hurlet Works above continuing to extend, there remained no possibility of carrying on the operations of this Bleachfield. Balgray, on the Brock, was another of these Fields that are now out of date. This work was long carried on by. the late Mr. Andrew Taylor, whose sons are still actively employed in separate establishments of the same nature, in the Mearns. Beside these, there were others that might have been no. tired, -but none of which were so extensive as those at present existing.
At Darnly the buildings are numerous, very compact, and well adapted for bleaching. It was at this place, a considerable number of years since, that Mr. Tennant of St. Rollox, made the grand discovery of the bleaching powder, which is now so universally used throughout the world. Some, however, not willing to allow Mr. Tennant the merit of this discovery, affirm that the secret was communicated to him by a Frenchman, who happened to be then in his employment. There is no doubt but he discovered the method of converting it from a gaseous state, into a state that fits it for being transported to any part of the globe; and that for this, discovery he obtained a patent. Moreover, it is said that the first Steam Rollers in the trade, or at least in Scotland, were used at this field. Here, also, about four years since, an attempt was made by the present possessor, Mr. Robert Smith, to manufacture Starch. At Glanderston, (where two of the -principal stoves were lately consumed by fire, but now sufficiently refitted,) the bleaching of book muslins has been carried on for 40 years, and now this Field is busily engaged in bleaching buckrams, and gives support to about 50 persons. Others employ some a. greater, others a fewer number of hands. That of Kirkton alone, has regularly from 260 to'280 people at work, sad may be said to be the most extensive Field for the finishing of light goods at present in the kingdom. When Mr. John Cochran entered therein, about 12 or 13 years ago, scarcely a sufficient house was in Kirkton, and flow it has a very respectable appearance. The houses are in excellent condition; and taste, and elegance, so far as a work of the kind will admit are certainly exhibited both in their interior, and exterior. In the rearing of these structures at Kirkton, the cost is said to have been upwards of £12,000,—They are well lighted with gas ; there is also a Boiling house here, whose dimensions are go feet by. 58 ; and it may not be un. worthy to remark, that the first engine said to have been made by Watt and Bolton, is to be seen here. It is in the rude original form, and is of 5 horse- power. Here likewise, as at the other works mentioned; --there is what is called a Woman-house, of two stories in height, inhabited by 150, or 160 women, for the most part from a distance. Each flat of this Barrack, as it may be termed, is divided into two apartments; their bedsteads. are of cast metal, and arranged in the upper flat in the same order as those in hospitals, One apartment in particular is kept in superior order and neatness—many of the females evincing a greater degree of taste than others, though all are deserving of the greatest praise for their clean- lines, (which must be very conducive to health,) in their sometimes "noisy mansion."
By calculation the annual consumpt of Starch and Soap at all these bleachfields, (including Crofthead, Fereneze, Crossmill, and Springfield Printfields, and South Arthurlie Turkey Red Dye-works, which fall yet to be noticed) is not a little. Having obtained correct information on this head, we find that during the period from 5th January, 1829, to the 5th January, 1830, inclusive, there were 252,500 lbs, of starch; 18,063 lbs. hard soap ; and 107,783 lbs. of soft soap, consumed. The draw-back claimed for starch, is 3½d per lb.; 3d. on hard soap ; and 2¾ d on soft do. At these rates, the amount of the draw-back alone, for last year, on the above 252,500 lbs. starch, is £3419: 5 : 6. On 18,063 lbs. hard soap, £225:15:9 ; and on 107,783 lbs. soft do. £1235 : 0 :3¼ Making a total of £4880 : 1 : 5½ Sterling. It would be a matter of curiosity to ascertain the quantities of the other ingredients of different kinds that are used here besides, but as this would be a tedious and arduous task, we shall not undertake it.
A little to the south-west of Kirkton field, Kirkton house has its situation. It is surrounded on the west and south by a. planting of fine trees -. it is of two stories in height, and from its elevated site is not only seen from a great distance, but commands a most extensive prospect towards Glasgow and beyond it, and of the rich country in an eastern and northern direction. Kirkton house was the residence of the late John Craig, Esq. J. P. and is now that of his family. To the south of Kirkton house, there is a spacious reservoir of water for the supply of Kirkton field; a little farther up, at the immediate foot of the Pad, on the west, there is another extensive dam for-the-same purpose, and a short distance under the former of these, is a small Corn mill, which is upwards of a hundred years old It was anciently the property of the laird of Glanderston
Having advanced this much upon Bleaching, we shall now say a little about Calico printing, which has been a considerable trade here since about the year 1770, when an establishment for printing linens and cottons, mm erected at Corsemill, alias Crossmill and which is still in operation. In 1773, a work of a similar nature was begun by Messrs. Finlay, Ure, Bryce, & Co. at Fereneze, which had been formerly a -place for bleaching,—the late Mr. Peter Adair (who appears to haw been the first bleacher that established himself on Levern having obtained while at Fereneze, through the interest of the late Colonel More, a premium of £100 Sterling, from the Board of Trade for having erected the first wash stocks in the country, at this place. Mr. Wilson, whom I have often quoted, when speaking of these establishments, says:—" The works at Kilbarchan, Fereneze, and Corse-Mill, employ 230 persons ; pay £7,500 of yearly wages ; and contribute £11,000 to the revenue of excise in the Paisley [of late years for the last two in the Glasgow] district. * * * * The goods printed at all these works, are shawls and handkerchiefs; at Kilbarchan and Fereneze for the home and foreign market - at Corsemill only for the former. Both Copperplate and Block printing are carried on at all these works, and ably conducted." Since these remarks were first made, which is about 20 years, many changes must have taken place in the establishments mentioned, as well as upon the Levern and its manufactures in general. The duty of threepence-halfpenny, for every square yard of Calico charged at Fereneze and Crossmill alone, in 1830, amounted to £11,246 :11:7. At Crofthead itself, in 1829, the amount of duty was £16,481:10:7. Sterling, and in 1830, notwithstanding the stoppage of the works, it amounted to £11,071 : 4 : 10½ . Thus we find that in 1830, at these three Printfields, the total amount of duty charged was no less than £22,317 : 16 : 5½ . Sterling. The Bill, for repealing 'the tax upon printed calico having now passed the House of Commons, such immense sums on this commodity will henceforth cease to be collected here by the excise officers, whose attendance will, of course, be less required than heretofore. At Crossmill, it is believed, printing is still done principally for the home Market, and at Fereneze for both as formerly. The premises at Crossmill have undergone several alterations of late; in particular the printing shop, which was three stories, and as good perhaps, as any in the line of business, was consumed by fire a few years back, as it had been several years previously.—It is rebuilt on its original site, but after somewhat of a new plan. Bleaching for the most part is now done altogether within doors, but at Crossmill we behold the fields decked with white, green, and printed goods, as formerly, before the discovery was made of the bleaching powder. It maybe thought the former method is still the most advantageous, and therefore it is still adopted here. At Fereneze there are about 70 printers--in all 200 persons or upwards, employed. In addition to Cottons, worsteds of late have been printed at this field;—a species of fabric on which there has never been any duty charged.
Besides Crossmill and Fereneze printfields, there are, and have been other printing establishments on Levern. There was one for several years at Chappel ; at Cross Arthurlie there was also printing done, and at Springfield, which has been a bleachfield, dyework, and printfield alternately. The premises in the latter place, are again converted into a work for printing worsteds and cottons. But above all these, Crofthead before noticed, when in full operation, (which may scarcely be said ever to have been the case,) was, perhaps, the most conspicuous. This field was originally a bleachfield—the greater part of the many houses having been lately built or rebuilt at the cost of R13,000. Here at one time there might be about 400 individuals employed, 100 of these being calico printers. At this printfield there are three cylinder machines, two of which are three-coloured, and one two-coloured; each of them will throw off 250 pieces of furniture or garment prints daily. The cost of the three in erecting is said to have been about .EI,500,besides, there are five other presses of different kinds here. This field is situated not a quarter of a mile above Crofthead factory. It is in possession of three, falls, viz. one at Lintmill, where the boiling and singeing houses are placed, another at the field, and the third near Holehouse, where it was intended the Croft-head mill should have been built. The excavation formed for this purpose is still to be seen, where as Ramsay says,
"Between twa birks out o'er a little linn,
The water fa’s and makes a singing din."
Turkey-red dyeing and discharging are two other branches that have been successfully attempted in this quarter;. at one time Messrs. John Stenhouse Co. Crossmill, had several discharging presses at work, and at present Mr. B. F. M’Allum of South Arthurlie, dyes a very large quantity of yarn of this colour. Till 1830 he possessed the premises at Springfield for this purpose, but now he has considerably augmented those at Arthurlie, which were previously occupied by Messrs. Smith and Campbell, for about 20 years, as a bleachfield. He has constantly in his employment from 70 to 80 persons, chiefly men. This work, as was formerly stated, is on the Arthurlie burn, which presents to the eye of the beholder a very fine cataract a little above the field, where the water as clear as crystal, dashes over the rocks from a considerable height, and on each side, the brushwood decks its banks with considerable beauty. It may be added, there is a small wheel to be seen working here, it is used for pumping of water, there being a coal pit at work at this place, which yields a sufficient supply of excellent coal for the service of the works at Arthurlie.
Besides power loom manufacture, Silk weaving is also another branch of trade carried on in the district, there being many looms in constant employment at this fabric. And still another branch which may be said in some measure to have emanated from Barrhead, namely, Nett weaving,---a species of very fine manufacture, chiefly fitted for the export trade to South America, the Indies, Gibraltar, &c. Nett weaving has been a progressive business here for several years back. It having been kept long a profound secret, the proprietors of every new establishment, (and there are now not a few) having the honour of being inventors in a great measure for them-.selves. Messrs. Martin & Lee were the first who began it in Barrhend, about 12 years since. While in company they, erected a mill of three stories, near Cross Arthurlie bridge and filled it with necessary apparatus for Nett weaving, and continued to manufacture this material for several years. This house is at present occupied by looms for what is commonly denominated power loom fabrics, and is in the possession of Messrs. J. & W. Cogan, Glasgow.—Martin A Lee are now in separate concerns in the same line as formerly, and increasing in business.
In Glasgow there am two shops fitted up for the weaving of nett is which there may be from So -to 40 boas ; they are the property of a Mr. Hamilton, who has besides some looms of this kind in Barrhead, and who makes larger purchases than any from the manufactures of nett in this village. Mr. Michael Stevenson is another person who produces much good work of this kind, and has had six looms at work for a long period. Mr. Robert Lochhead has also an equal number; and there are others here, in Neilston, and the neighbourhood. In short, in this district there are in all about 60 looms engaged in manufacturing this fabric, which must employ an equal number of weavers. On an average the daily produce of these looms may amount to 120 pieces of 10 yards each in length. Many years ago something of this kind was attempted in Paisley, but famed and expert as they are in weaving there, their nett work could never equal in excellence the production of the looms of Barrhead.
Thus do we behold on the Levern and its vicinity, a complete system of active operations in various branches.— Here is the spinner, the weaver, the bleacher, the dyer, and the printer. Here from the cotton wool is produced the finest finished goods, and which various and diversified manufactures, give bread to thousands, from the boy to the man of grey hairs, from the girl to the matron of three-score years. Here men of genius in their various occupations employ their useful, talents to good purpose, viz.—the accomplished engineer, the tasteful turner, the thorough-bred colour-maker and chemist, the ingenious print-cutter and printer, the elegant pattern drawer, the skilful engraver, besides numerous others. The capital that is necessary for defraying, if it were no more than the wages of these operatives, must accumulate to no paltry sum yearly, independently of the tear and wear of the machinery and the various implements indispensably necessary in carrying on the multifarious manufactures on the Levern. In fine, taking a view of the numerous public works as a whole, bow extensive must be the expenditure in this district in a month! in a year!—It may be said to be but a work shop to the city of Glasgow, and certainly an active one. It is daily growing into importance, and which as long as trade continues to prosper, must contribute to the increase of population and of houses, and to the general strength and importance of the Kingdom, so that, had Mr. Hamilton of Wishaw lived now-a-days, it is not likely he would have written in his account of Neilston that's It is no great parish." In his time, indeed, it might be true with regard to what he here states, when not one of the mills, bleachfields, nor, printfields noticed were in existence, and these are the very stamina, if I may so speak, of its greatness. Without these, where would have been our great population in 1821 of 991 Scotch families, seven of English and 261 of Irish, and which must at this time, 1831, be much more numerous? Without the intercourse with these mechanics, would the farmers here have been so intelligent? would the produce of their lands have met with so ready a market?—Moreover, where had been our grand manufactories of different kinds, bad it not been for the excellent water and numerous water-falls in this quarter? that scarcely a field is to be had along the banks of the Levern unoccupied.
But I shall conclude this chapter, by merely Remarking, that, from the more elevated situation of the lands above Neilston, to that of the country to the east and north of that village, there is a considerable difference in the soil and produce, and in the maturing of the -crops of whatever kind thereon reared. No less an interval than from two to three weeks is commonly observed to take place between the reaping in the upper and lower districts, the former being much the colder, and in consequence, the later in its productions. Indeed, there will often be hard frost at Neilston, when at Barrhead there is a general thaw. — Consequently they will be often found skating and curling (at which they are very expert here) on the Walton and other dams above, while at Barrhead they are plunging over the shoe-mouth in the dirt of the highway.
CHAPTER IX
“This is the scene where Scotia's queen of old,IN Neilston there are several fairs 'held in the course of a year, and at Barrhead there is one, if it deserves the name, held on the last Friday and Saturday of June. The one which is chiefly observed, however, is Paisley St. James' Day Fair ; in the celebration of which, though at the distance of four miles, all the public works on the Levern are set at rest, and the people, young and old, flock thither in hundreds. About 30 years ago an attempt to establish a cattle market at Barrhead was made by David Maxwell, farmer, Dubs, and Hugh Miller and John Pinkerton, who brought forth their cattle for two or three seasons successively, and gave notice, by sound of bell, to several towns around for the people to appear on the ground with their beasts; but, with the exception of themselves, very few more attended: hence their laudable efforts were frustrated. A revival of this, however, was attempted last fair day, 1830, when, were this or something of a more worthy nature than merely horse racing followed out, it would be of much more importance, and would be hailed by people from far and near with enthusiasm. This fair was originally got up by the trades people, principally the weavers of the place, and under the auspices of the late Mr. Gavin Ralston, who having been formerly an officer in the army, still cherished a taste for the line, if we may judge from his having patronized the weaver's parade that had its commencement with the fair, and which for a series of years took place in this quarter, when, on purpose to give more magnificence to it, he complimented the weavers with a pink coloured silk standard two yards square, having the Ralston coat of Arms elegantly painted thereon, and valued at five guineas. The last weavers' parade happened about 27 years ago. The spirit seems now to have taken possession of the reformers, more particularly of the brethren of the Milston Thistle and Crown Lodge, and of those of the Union and Crown Lodge, Barrhead, who have annual processions after their own manner
We have already, in the, second Chapter of these Sketches, said something of Arthurlie. It appears there was originally but one place of this name, and in course of time this has branched off to east, west, south, mid; Nether, west, Cross Arthurlie, and so on, which puzzles many to find out which is which., 'A substitution of some other names, for a few, of the places bearing; the name, of Arthurlie would assuredly be commendable. Crawford says Cunningham of Craigends, on the river Griffe that be took to wife “Elizabeth Stewart, daughter and, co heiress of Sir. Witham Stewart of Arthurly, who was of' the Stewarts of Darnly, by who he obtained the lands of Arthurly." In the last century; a family of the name of Pollock were proprietors of Nether Arthurlie; and in 1780, the, greater part of the estate of Arthurlie came through a marriage: with the heiress Miss Annabella Pollock, grand-daughter of, Sir Robert Pollock, to the foresaid Mr. Ralston of that ilk; who afterwards feued out a village on this estate called New Town Ralston but which is now considered a part of Barrhead. East Arthurlie, Arthurlie Proper, or Arthurlie House, which house, though built at different periods, is the best specimen of architecture in the parish of Neilston. The policies are likewise rich and agreeable. As it regards situation, however; Mr, Henry Dunlop’s being much more elevated; is perhaps the most pleasant.. This latter was, built about 18 years ago, on the site of, Mr Ralston’s house, where some stones in: the park, apparently forming a tomb for some unknown personage, were built, with others in the walls.
Speaking of tombs, it is in the recollection of many old people of several stones of a similar. kind. that stood not far from this, . at Chappel or Chappell, on the opposite brink of the Levern to Mr. Barr's Bleachfield, and Mr. Stewart's Chip mill. It is certain, that a Roman Catholic chapel was anciently at this place, its site: having been that of the bleachfield. It was a dependency on the Abbey of Paisley; hence arose the name Chappel which it still retains, —the mansion house and policies of which have lately been greatly improved. The rich and extensive Glebe of the priests extended to Grahamston and Fereneze, a great part of which' is now built. To this day there is a well of the best spring water at Chappel, which retains the name of the sanctified well, because the water was made use of by the congregation. Near the site (if Mr. Cunningham’s new house, there was at one time also a cairn of stones which commemorated some great warlike achievement, supposed to have been with the Danes, as there still is, or was till lately, a very aged thorn nearby, called "The Dane Cross Thorn." Not far from this there is what is commonly called “Maggy Hart's Well, " with a very large stone beside it. Maggy Hart is reported to have been a witch and was buried beneath this stone, and to the terror of many it is said she has appeared at night, and on this stone she has sat and spun. On Fereneze braes till of late there were two tumuli to be seen, one of which was of considerable bulk, and had the foundation of a dyke wall around it. It reported that another engagement took place here, but the particulars are lost. Across Fereneze braes there has been a foot road from Paisley to Neilston from time immemorial. -- On the east front of these braes, Trees, the residence 6f William. Finlay, Esq. is the most Pleasantly situated mansion house in this part of the country. It is richly ornamented, and sheltered on the west and south by wooding, and on every other direction by orchards of fruit trees, shrubbery, flowers, and plants of every description being so elevated, it is visible except. to the west where it is overtopped by the hills) for many miles away, and commands an interesting view of Glasgow. A kind of wooden balcony or veranda, extending the whole length of the house in front was erected in 1830, which, on passing near to it, gives it a look of additional grandeur. But I must hasten down the Levern; for,
Carlebar is the residence of Robert Dunlop , Esq. late proprietor of the Levern mill. Considerable improvements have been lately made here—the principal is that of bringing the road round the back of it, in place of the front. Walls, hot houses, and so on, have likewise been erected. Stewart's Rais, or the Auld Tower, as it is commonly called, a little under, may be said to be literally tottering to its fall. It was at one time of a square form, and had fine orchards about it, and many trees, and was possessed originally by one Halrig, a branch of the noble family of Darnly. The walls are very thick, and in the centre, as in Cruikston castle, there was an arch that extended the whole breadth of the interior. Several years ago it was greatly demolished on purpose to erect a house in the neighbourhood with the stones —It is now. the property of Mr. James Sharp, Dry salter, Glasgow
Having noticed Stewart's Rais, it leads me to say something of the old house, which is reported to have been the abode of the Earl of Lennox, at Darnly Toll Barr. Anciently it was of two stories, but about 15 years ago the one half of it was taken down for the purpose of building a cottage at Upper Darnly, to accommodate Sir John Maxwell and suite, when on hunting expeditions. Upon the lintel of a door, (which by the bye is on a window, there are the following initials:
D S. I.S. DS. 1614
The date is very indistinct, but from an old edition of Crawfurd enlarged, I find it1614. The joists of this house are of Scotch Oak; and about 18
This is Henry Dunlop, born 1747, uncle of James Dunlop born 1762. He acquired Upper Arthurlie House in 1806
This is Robert Dunlop, born 1762, cousin of James Dunlop born 1762. He died the year that this account was written.