For many months my wife and I had considered making the journey to India specifically to visit the Grenadiers but were vague as to when it would be best to do this - or whether we were up to it!
Then through Sunil Bannerji my once Scout Platoon Commander in A Coy 3 Grs, we learnt that my old Bn was considering holding a triple celebration in December to mark:
222 years since the first creation of the unit in 1768.
the Golden Anniversary of the re-raising of the Bn 1940 after it had been placed in suspended animation in 1930. And lastly
the most recent battle honour awarded to the Bn, JARPAL (BASANTAR) Day when, in 1971, the Bn repulsed many attacks by the Pakistanis and then Major (now Lt Col) Hoshiar Singh won the Param Vir Chakra (our VC) for his outstanding courage and gallantry in the action at JARPAL village.
However we knew that the Bn had only very recently moved to Jaipur from the northern border (from above the snow line) and we also knew that they had been involved in IS duties, flag marches and the like since their move and we wondered whether they could possibly also mount such a triple celebration in the very little time available to them. We should never have given it a thought!!!
Anyway we decided to risk it and made arrangements to travel to Delhi on 11 December, spend a couple of days there, travel down to Jaipur for a day or two of tourism and then visit the Bn for whatever tamasha they had managed to arrange in such a short while.
I wrote to the CO, Colonel J S Lidder, and told him of our intention; telephoned Sunil Bannerji to tell him what we wereplanning who, in his turn, wrote to Lt Gen Tomar, Colonel of the Grenadiers, and we set off on 11 December.
We flew PanAm to Delhi arriving at 0130 hrs on 12 Dec but didn't find all our kit - due to some idiot taking one of our cases off the carousel for us and placing it some 30 yards away whilst we stood like loonies gazing at an empty belt.
Emerging at about 0230 hrs we found waiting for us Lt Gen V P Airy MVC the Director of Military Training for the Indian Army and a Grenadier; Major Gen H C Gahlaut PVSM (Retd) and a Grenadier once 2ic of A coy - my old coy; his son with a car and Naib Subedar Ramesh Kumar who was to be our LO during our stay.
They greeted us most warmly and we knew that if such a welcome was indicative of how we were to be treated for the next few days we were going to be very well treated indeed. And so it turned out - kindness, hospitality and friendliness were given us unstintingly by all ranks throughout our time in India. I find it impossible to thank them all enough.
We had booked ourselves into the Maidens Dberoi Hotel where John Pringle had once stayed and had recommended to us. On arrival we were shown to a suite the size of the ground floor plan of our cottage here in Norfolk; very comfortable and only $62 (about £31) a night.
A late, late breakfast was followed by a taxi drive round Delhi and a visit to the Red Fort with its rather wee military museum, a siesta and then to dinner with General and Mrs Airy (journey by staff car goes without saying). There we met his son, a Grenadier; and daughter; Lt Gen Handoo PVSM (Retd); Major Gen P P Singh VSM and Brig Batra amongst others and had a most enjoyable evening and VERY good food!
It was during this evening that I learnt of an event which I am sure must be unique in military history.
During the action at JARPAL, where Hoshiar Singh earned his PVC for his exceptional courage, his company was counter-attacked by 35 Frontier Force Rifles on seven separate occasions, each unsuccessful. The final counter-attack was led personally, and from the front, by the Bn Comd himself who was killed at the head of his men.
So impressed was the CO 3 Grenadiers, Lt Col (now Lt Gen) Airy that he wrote on a message pad a citation detailing and praising the bravery of his dead adversary which was handed to the Pakistani brigadier when a truce was in being to allow the collection of 86 Pakistani dead.
As a result of this Lt Col Mohd Akram Raja was awarded a posthumous Nishan-e-Haider, the highest award for gallantry in the army of Pakistan.
I wonder if such generosity and respect towards ones enemy is likely to apply in any war in which western armies may be involved?
Next day, the 13th, Harkesh and his very attractive daughter-in-law Rashmi came to our hotel to take us shopping. We went to the Government Craft Emporium where all sorts of items from jewellery, sculpture, toys and materials etc are for sale at fixed and reasonable prices. We spent (and that's the right word!) all day there with a longish break when Harkesh took us to lunch in a very stylish air conditioned Indian restaurant. This was a good day.
The following morning Subedar Ramesh Kumar called for us to take us by train to Jaipur. I had asked to travel by train as I felt I would see more of the country by that means. However I had forgotten the length of journey (B hrs), I had forgotten to pick up our packed lunch at the hotel and I had forgotten to buy bottled water. We were glad to get to Jaipur to be met by Captain Ravinder Gill who whisked us off in a most palatial, chromed Jeep to the Forest Guest House which was to be our home for our stay with the Bn. It is located in a beautiful garden, rife with bougainvilia and with peafowl and monkeys to look at. We had a small staff provided by the Bn of a batman/orderly, a waiter (together with his well stocked bar), a cook and a driver (together, of course, with his car) and a havildar to see that they behaved!!
Whoever reads this will understand the hardship we suffered -anything once worn, when taken off, was whisked away to the dhobi to be back within an hour or two laundered; on arrival, quite late at night, I asked whether a blazer badge and regimental blazer buttons presented to me by Harkesh the day before could be put onto my blazer. The jacket was back in my wardrobe before I went to bed that night complete with badge and buttons. I am trying to persuade my wife to continue to press knife-like creases in my boxer shorts - she says I'll have to do that myself! We were spoilt!!
After breakfast the next morning we were visited by a young officer called Sanjay Malik (to be promoted to Lieutenant before we left) who told us that the CO suggested that we might like to see Amber Fort some 11 kms outside the city after calling at Bn HQ.
We fell in with his wishes as you might expect and, in his office, saw photographs of all COs from 1940 onwards less the first two - Lt Col Adams and Lt Col Cortlandt Anderson. If someone has a decent snapshot of either of them I am sure the Bn would like a copy.
We met the 2i/c Major Sukhbir Punia who was, I am certain, one of the main "do-ers" for all that was to be presented by the unit over the next 3 days.
Next, with Malik by Jeep, to Amber Fort up to which we were allowed to drive - normal tourists must walk or take an elephant "taxi" up the hill; my wife took her elephant ride round a courtyard within the fort itself.
It, and the palaces within it, are extraordinary and beautiful.
Back to the Guest House for lunch and to meet Sunil Bannerji and his wife Dolly. It was good to meet him again and, of course, his wife with whom we immediately became friends. On the 16th Malik again was our guide, this time to the Pink or City Palace in Jaipur itself. This beautiful group of buildings contains the residence of the present Maharajah as well as numbers of museum rooms to the public. The chief custodian of all this met us and had his son accompany us on a tour of the excellent collection of weapons, armour, paintings, sculpture and relics of past rulers of the State. We were then given drinks and presented with folders containing reproductions of Moghul art — then back to the Mess for a gin or two and lunch. In the Mess I was shown the original visitors book, started on the re-raising of the Bn in November 1940, the first entry being a list of officers on the strength on that date — amongst these names my own!!
As lunch went on a bit due to most pleasant company we were a little late for the afternoon's event which was the inter company sports. However we did manage to arrive in time for the prize giving and to cheer the champion company — it will come as no surprise to learn that it was, of course, Alpha Coy, my company of 50 years before!
That evening at 8 pm we were to dine (with many others) with the CO and his wife at Jarpal Lodge. As this time approached we called on Sunil and Dolly who were now also living in the Forest G H, to find that Sunil was missing. He had insisted on going for a walk at 5 pm and by 7.30 was not back. He arrived at 7.45 (it had been dark for two hours) cut and bruised having been knocked down by a cyclist, had lost his way in the dark and had eventually been guided back by a 16 year old Samaritan who refused any reward. After medical treatment Sunil attended for dinner but was, I think, a little shaken. He is now
That evening was delightful; drinks in the garden to music by a section of the Bn band, a very pleasant buffet and lots of jolly nice people.
17 December was a quieter day. A short visit in the morning to the Pagal Gymkhana where I partook of only the simplest side-shows (and failed abysmally); where we bought a few things from the Regimental Wives Club handicraft stall and found out later that each of the three things we had -bought out of the hundred or so items available had been made by the COs wife - we didn't know she'd made them... honest!!
Lunch at the JCOs mess and a rest in the afternoon was followed by a "bara khana". and stage show of a very high standard (although I must admit I didn't understand a word!). The whole affair was declared open
from the stage by Lt Gen Tomar supported by Lt Gens Airy and Menezes, Maj Gen Gahlaut, Col Hoshiar Singh and myself who, after a few words by the Colonel of the Regiment, all chorused "Ram Ram" and raised our glasses in toast to the jawans. This, incidentally was the only time that I saw Stanley Menezes take a drink throughout our stay. Perhaps that is why he has a mind as sharp as a razor.
The 18th was the last day of the celebrations and started with the inspection of a-Guard of Honour by Lt Gen Tomar - and very smart they were.
This was followed by the opening of a "Heritage Room" which is, in effect, a Bn museum given over to the history of the Bn from its inception with photographs, relics, medals, maps, models etc through which recruits, visitors and others can absorb some of the pride of being a Grenadier. I was given the great honour of cutting the ribbon and declaring the Heritage Room open.
Then to the Ceremonial Sainak Sammelan (or Durbar) where the CO, and past COs, addressed the Bn and where, for the first time, I was able to examine the special centre piece made to mark this triple anniversary. It is a silver obelisk surmounted by a Grenade and the (by now to me almost mystical) numbers 222 and 50. It is mounted on a double plinth on each portion of which are mounted silver plaques which, together with the obelisk itself, are inscribed with the history of the Bn. Battles, dates, names', honours, everything is there. The lower, larger plinth also carries representative statuettes of Grenadiers in uniform. It stands, I suppose,3 or more feet in height and is most impressive.
Whilst this was happening Beryl was attending a Family
Welfare Club meeting where playlet, singing and dancing were put on by the wives to entertain, girls in various Indian dress performed a welcoming ceremony and chota eats were served.
We were invited to lunch by Col Hoshiar Singh PVC where we were given some drams and where we met his family including a son who was a Grenadier officer – as many other Grenadier fathers - seem to have - Gens Airy, Gahlaut as well as Hoshiar Singh and probably others as well.
After an excellent meal, and some instruction for Beryl by Mrs Hoshiar Singh in the kitchen, we left to do some more, final shopping; for this was our last day in Jaipur.
That evening we attended a Light and Sound Show illustrating the history of the Bn. Produced and presented by Col Lidder this was a real "tour de force". Staged on the opposite side of a swimming pool from the spectators young actors discussed the Bn history, its importance in the instillation of regimental spirit and pride in service. Slides of photographs, plans and documents were used to illustrate and all was accompanied by music or sound effects and a most stirring commentary. It was truly a moving and highly successful climax to three wonderful days.
From there we walked through ranks of flaming torches borne by soldiers in uniforms of the past to the Officers' Mess to eat and drink and dance.
There Beryl and 1 were given an opportunity to thank all those who had been so kind to us even though no words could convey all that we felt.
Next morning we said good-bye to Sunil and Dolly; Col and Mrs Lidder came to the Rest House to say farewell and I gave my miniatures to the Bn Heritage Room. Then, accompanied by our trusty LO,we left by luxury coach for Delhi, an invitation (on arrival) to drinks with Gen Airy, an invitation to supper at the Delhi Gymkhana Club from Gen Menezes and then, at midnight, with Gen Airy to Delhi Airport and - eventually - home
We shall never forget the friendship, hospitality and kindness shown to us.
A few after thoughts:-Me dancing wildly in the mess with, in one hand, Lt Gen Tomar Comdt of the IMA, and, in the other, my old friend tiger-killer Maj Gen Gahlaut. I hope this is NOT on video, most of what else we did is.
Beryl weeping as she said goodbye to Mrs Lidder so touched had she been by the wonderful way we had been received.
The generosity of the retired officer who, three times on separate evenings, offered me 20 acres of land on which to build a house provided I could bring water from 48 miles away!!!! The third time he offered he swore he was sober!!!!
The final kindness; when, at midnight at Delhi airport, a lovely young lady came to us and said that we should please use the PanAm first class lounge. She was related to Harkesh.